El Califa de León: Mexican taco stand awarded a Michelin star
In the heart of Mexico City’s San Rafael neighborhood, Tacos El Califa de León has been making history and delicious tacos for over 70 years.
This taqueria, known for its signature gaonera taco, has recently become the first Mexican taco stand to earn a Michelin star. This recognition, based on multiple visits from Michelin inspectors, highlights the exceptional quality and simplicity of their food.
Have you visited them yet? Here’s their location, click to open the map.
El Califa de León operates out of a tiny 10-by-10-foot space, where the intense heat from the steel grill makes the meat. Located amidst street vendors and various shops, the taqueria is easy to miss. One Michelin inspector noted, “It’s a humble spot that you could easily walk by. Obscured from view by clothing vendors and various shops, this taqueria is a mere slip of an operation dominated by a griddle, a tortilla press, refrigerator, and a short counter.” Despite its modest appearance, this taqueria stands out for its dedication to quality.
The menu at El Califa de León is simple, offering only four types of tacos, all sourced from prime cuts of beef around the cow’s rib, loin, or fore shank. “The secret is the simplicity of our taco. It has only a tortilla, red or green sauce, and that’s it. That, and the quality of the meat,” says Rivera Martínez, the proprietor. His drink recommendation? A classic Coca-Cola. The inspectors appreciated this straightforward approach, noting, “It’s about the meat and tortilla without any fuss or garnish to dress it up or hide behind.”
Read the complete Michelin Guide Review here
Half of the space is taken up by a steel plate grill. This grill is hotter than the salsas served, creating a unique and intense cooking environment. The other half of the space is packed with standing customers and a dedicated assistant rolling fresh tortilla dough. You won’t find any tables and seats —just a metal shelf-style counter to balance your plate.
Thousands of times a day, Rivera Martínez grabs a fresh fillet of beef, seasons it with salt and lime, and grills it to perfection. The freshly cooked tortilla and beef are then served on a plastic plate, ready for customers to add their preferred sauce. Despite the high price of nearly $5 per taco, many customers believe it’s worth it.
El Califa de León’s success lies in its unwavering commitment to quality and tradition. Owner Mario Hernández Alonso continues the legacy started by his father, Juan, who founded the business. Despite changes in the neighborhood and the competition, Hernández Alonso remains steadfast in his approach. The consistency of their high standards impressed the inspectors, who noted that the quality remained the same on every visit, whether in the morning or at night during busy dinner hours.
The review:
– Bistec: Seared on the plancha with lard, lime, and salt, this taco features especially tender and flavorful meat with a nice sear. The quality steak and great tortilla are elevated by vibrant salsa that adds a burst of flavor without overpowering the simplicity of the taco.
– Chuleta: This taco showcases a thinly sliced pork chop, seared to perfection with a golden-brown exterior and a juicy interior. It is served on an excellent, freshly pressed masa tortilla.
– Costilla: Featuring an incredibly flavorful and tender thin slice of beef, this taco is perfectly timed to be handed to customers piping hot. The meat practically melts in your mouth.
– Gaonera: A skillfully prepared ribeye, even more tender than the bistec, served on a thin yellow corn tortilla. The flavorful meat doesn’t need any addition, but the option to add house-made tomatillo salsa is available.
Each tortilla is made by hand to order, with masa hand-mixed with water to achieve perfect consistency. These tortillas are slightly larger than those typically found in the city, adding to the unique experience.
In the post-pandemic world, while many restaurants have expanded to street-side seating, El Califa de León sticks to its roots. With no sidewalk space available due to street vendors, customers continue to stand amidst the chaos, embracing the tradition and authenticity of the taco stand. When asked if he would change anything, Hernández Alonso reflects a philosophy of resilience and tradition. “As the saying goes, why fix or change something that’s alright? You shouldn’t fix anything,” he says, acknowledging the street vendors as part of the community fabric.
Tacos El Califa de León is more than just a taco stand; it’s a symbol of culinary excellence, tradition, and the vibrant spirit of Mexico City. Its Michelin star is not just a recognition of its outstanding tacos but a celebration of its enduring legacy and the simple joy of a well-made taco.
